Below par experience at Above 11, Bangkok

Situated on the 33rd floor of Fraser Suites, Above 11 offers an expansive bird-eye view of Sukhumvit’s Soi 11. The rooftop bar is quite large and divided into two areas: a bar area with a brightly lit island bar and a line of bar stools along a glass wall, and a lounge with sofas and low tables for bigger groups and more relaxed conversation. Near the entrance an American jazz band were performing jazz vocals on the night we visited.

Considering that Above 11 is primarily a bar and therefore focuses more on providing an interesting wine and spirits list, and creating a comfortable atmosphere, it was our mistake to have gone there in search of a gastronomic experience. The attraction of course was that it did Peruvian-Japanese, one of the hottest cuisines in the western hemisphere, but one which hasn’t entered India as yet and is unlikely to any time in the near future.

So, while it’s a very stylish and contemporary-looking bar with a great view, a nice buzz and warm, attentive service that attracts high-value tourists, the food was sadly below par.

This was the highlight of the evening. A popular Peruvian street food typically made from beef heart, the kebabs had a lovely smoky flavour and a firm, chewy, almost rubbery texture. The chilli and mixed herbs marinade, that the kebabs were coated with, was closer to a Malaysian satay than the supposedly sweetish Japanese Yakitori they were based on, and the kebabs didn’t need the additional sauces.

Another perfectly executed dish. The tangy leche de tigre, the lime juice dressing that accompanies ceviche, that drenched the sashimi-like tuna was nicely balanced by the mayo and avocado. The togarashi, the Japanese spice mixture, added just the right hint dash of spiciness.

After this, the rest of the meal went downhill.

The causa, the traditional yellow chili spiced potato mash, topped with crab meat sounded good on paper, but ended up being quite bland to taste. The cheesy huancaina sauce didn’t really register or help much.

The charcoal grilled tuna tasted great but the pumpkin puree in orange sauce and rest of the elements were just a mish-mash of flavours. Not a very cohesive dish.

Another dish full of promise on the menu but quite a disappointment on the table. Too dry and tasted like a cross between a paella and a prawn pulao.

Probably the dullest of them all. The duck leg confit was served on a bed of cilantro rice and an uninspiring yellow, lime and onion sauce.

Above 11
Fraser Suites
38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11
Klong Toey Nua
Wattana, Bangkok